How to Tell If Your Turtle Is Dying: Warning Signs Every Owner Should Know

Hey there, turtle friend! I know how much you love your little shelled buddy. I’ve been keeping turtles for years, and I want to share something really important with you today.

Sometimes our turtles get sick. And we need to know the warning signs fast. Why? Because catching problems early can save your turtle’s life!

Today, I’m going to walk you through every sign that shows your turtle might be dying. Don’t worry – I’ll also tell you what you can do to help.

Quick Answer: How Can I Tell If My Turtle Is Dying?

Your turtle might be dying if you see these signs:

• Not eating food anymore
• Staying on the basking spot all day long
• Moving very slowly or not moving at all
• Foam or bubbles coming from the nose or mouth
• Swimming in a crooked way
• Breathing that sounds weird or looks hard
• Bad smell coming from the shell
• Eyes that look puffy and closed

If you see any of these signs, you need to act fast. Keep reading, and I’ll explain each sign in detail.

The Most Important Signs Your Turtle Is Dying

Let me break down each warning sign for you. Pay close attention because these details matter!

1. Your Turtle Stays On The Basking Spot Too Long

I remember the first time I noticed my turtle spending way too much time basking. At first, I thought she just loved sunbathing. But then I learned the truth.

When turtles feel sick, they bask more. Why? They’re trying to make their body hot. The heat helps them fight sickness – just like when you get a fever!

But here’s the tricky part: Sometimes turtles bask more for other reasons:

• The water feels too cold for them
• Something in the water bothers their skin
• They just really like basking (some turtles do!)
• Different turtle types have different habits

So what should you do? Look for OTHER signs too. If your turtle is basking all day AND showing other symptoms, something is wrong.

My advice: Check your water temperature first. It should be between 75-80 degrees Fahrenheit for most turtles. If the water is cold, warm it up and see if your turtle acts normal again.

2. Foam Or Bubbles At The Nose Or Mouth

This sign scares me every time I see it. And you should be scared too – in a good way. Because fear means you’ll act fast!

When your turtle has clear, slimy stuff coming from its nose or mouth, that’s mucus. When your turtle breathes, this mucus turns into foam or bubbles.

This is serious! Foam at the mouth or nose usually means your turtle has a respiratory infection. That’s a lung sickness.

Here’s what makes me really worried: Respiratory infections can kill your turtle if you don’t treat them quickly. And here’s the worst part – you can’t fix this at home with home remedies.

What you CAN do:

• Make the water warmer (around 80-82 degrees)
• This helps your turtle’s immune system work better
• But you MUST take your turtle to a vet right away!

The vet will give your turtle special medicine called antibiotics. This medicine fights the infection and saves your turtle’s life.

Important tip: Don’t wait! The longer you wait, the worse it gets. I learned this the hard way once, and I don’t want you to make the same mistake.

3. Your Turtle Stops Eating

I always get worried when my turtle doesn’t want to eat. Turtles love food! So when they stop eating, something is definitely wrong.

Loss of appetite can mean many things:

• Your turtle feels sick
• Your turtle has pain somewhere
• Your turtle’s body isn’t working right
• Female turtles might be ready to lay eggs

Here’s what I do when my turtle won’t eat:

First, I look at the turtle carefully. Do I see any cuts or sores? Does the shell look weird? Is the turtle acting strange?

Then, I check the tank. Is the water clean? Is the temperature right? Sometimes fixing these things makes the turtle hungry again.

But if nothing changes after 2-3 days, I take my turtle to the vet. The vet can figure out what’s wrong and give medicine if needed.

Special note for female turtle owners: If you have a girl turtle, she might stop eating before laying eggs. This is normal! But don’t assume this is always the reason. Check for other symptoms too.

4. Your Turtle Acts Really Tired And Lazy

Turtles are full of life and energy. They swim around, climb on things, and come to you when they see food. That’s how healthy turtles act!

But when your turtle gets sick, everything changes. Your turtle might:

• Lie still for hours and hours
• Not swim to the basking spot
• Keep its eyes closed all day
• Not come to you for food anymore
• Move very, very slowly when it does move

I call this being “lethargic.” It’s a fancy word that means having no energy.

This is VERY serious! Lethargy means your turtle is really, really sick. You need to help right away!

What to do immediately:

1. Warm up the tank water to 85 degrees Fahrenheit
2. This helps your turtle feel a bit better
3. Call your vet and make an emergency visit
4. Take your turtle in as soon as possible

One more thing: If you have a female turtle and she’s acting lazy, she might be pregnant with eggs. But this only happens if she’s older than 4 years. If your female turtle is younger than 4 and acting lazy, she’s probably sick.

5. Your Turtle Swims Crooked Or Lopsided

Have you ever seen your turtle swimming at an angle? Like one side is higher than the other? This is called lopsided swimming, and it’s not good.

Why does this happen?

Your turtle has air inside its body. This air should be balanced evenly. But when something goes wrong, the air moves to one side. This makes your turtle tilt when swimming.

Two main reasons cause lopsided swimming:

Reason 1: Respiratory infection or pneumonia

Fluid builds up in your turtle’s lungs. This makes one lung heavier than the other. So your turtle tilts to one side.

Reason 2: Gas buildup in the stomach

Sometimes turtles eat things they shouldn’t eat. Like small rocks, pieces of gravel, or bits of substrate from the tank bottom.

These things get stuck in the stomach. They can’t come out in the poop. This creates a blockage. Gas builds up behind the blockage. And this gas makes your turtle swim funny.

This is super dangerous! If your turtle can’t poop, it can die. The vet needs to give your turtle special medicine to help it go to the bathroom.

My experience: I once had a turtle that ate a small pebble. She started swimming lopsided. I took her to the vet immediately. The vet gave her medicine, and she finally passed the pebble. But if I had waited, she might have died.

Important: If your turtle swims lopsided, get help fast. Sometimes the problem has gone too far, and even the vet can’t fix it. But trying is always better than doing nothing!

6. Coughing, Sneezing, Or Wheezing

Turtles can sneeze – did you know that? And coughing too! But here’s what you need to understand:

Occasional sneezing = Usually okay

Constant sneezing = Big problem

When a turtle sneezes, you’ll see it shake its head. Sometimes the whole body jerks. This is easy to see when your turtle is basking.

But pay attention to these danger signs:

• Your turtle sneezes over and over
• Your turtle looks uncomfortable or irritated
• You hear whistling sounds when your turtle breathes
• Your turtle’s breathing looks hard or strained
• You hear wheezing sounds (like a squeaky noise)

All of these sounds mean your turtle has trouble breathing. Breathing problems are emergencies!

What causes breathing problems?

• Respiratory infections (the most common cause)
• Something stuck in the throat
• Lung disease
• Heart problems (rare but possible)

What you should do:

Listen carefully to your turtle. Put your ear close (but not too close) when your turtle is basking. Do you hear any weird sounds? Write down what you hear. This helps the vet understand the problem better.

Then get to the vet as soon as you can. Breathing problems get worse very quickly!

7. Weird Poop Or Blood In The Poop

I know looking at turtle poop isn’t fun. But it tells us a lot about turtle health!

Normal turtle poop looks like this:

• Brown or greenish color
• Firm but not too hard
• Comes out regularly (every few days)
• Doesn’t smell too bad

Sick turtle poop looks like this:

• Black and tarry (sticky)
• Has red or dark red spots (blood)
• Super runny or watery
• Smells really, really bad
• Has white spots or worms in it

Blood in the poop is super serious! This can mean:

• Internal bleeding inside your turtle
• Organs failing
• Parasites eating the intestines
• Advanced infection

The blood might not look bright red. It mixes with stomach acid and digestive juices. So it comes out looking black and tarry instead.

Parasites are common in turtles. They’re tiny worms or creatures that live inside your turtle and eat its food. Severe parasite infections can kill your turtle.

What to do:

If you see blood in the poop, collect a sample. Put it in a clean plastic bag or container. Take it AND your turtle to the vet immediately. The vet needs to see the poop to figure out what’s wrong.

8. Wrinkled, Dry, Or Shriveled Skin

Healthy turtle skin looks smooth and firm. But sick turtle skin looks different.

Signs of skin problems:

• Skin looks wrinkled and loose
• Skin appears dried out
• Skin looks like it’s shrinking
• Folds appear in the skin
• The turtle looks skinnier than before

What causes this?

The main cause is dehydration. Your turtle isn’t getting enough water in its body. Even though turtles live in water, they can still get dehydrated!

Dehydration happens when:

• Your turtle isn’t drinking
• Your turtle has diarrhea (loses water fast)
• Your turtle is too sick to absorb water
• The turtle’s organs are failing

As dehydration gets worse, your turtle loses weight. The skin has nothing to hold onto, so it starts folding and wrinkling.

This is a late-stage sign of serious illness. If your turtle’s skin looks like this, you need emergency vet care right now!

9. Puffy, Swollen Eyelids

I feel so sad when I see a turtle with swollen eyes. The poor thing can’t see properly!

What swollen eyes look like:

• Eyelids puffed up and closed
• Can’t see the actual eye
• Sometimes fluid or pus around the eye
• Turtle bumps into things because it can’t see
• Turtle doesn’t react when you move your hand

What causes swollen eyes?

• Respiratory infections (these affect eyes too!)
• Eye infections
• Vitamin A deficiency
• Injury to the eye
• Dirty water irritating the eyes

Why is this dangerous?

When your turtle can’t see, it can’t find food. It can’t see predators. It gets stressed. And stress makes sickness worse!

Treatment requires a vet visit. The vet might prescribe:

• Eye drops or ointment
• Vitamin A supplements
• Antibiotics if there’s infection
• Instructions for cleaning the eyes

Prevention tip: Keep your water clean and give your turtle a balanced diet with vitamin A. Foods rich in vitamin A include leafy greens and special turtle pellets with added vitamins.

10. Strange Noises And Crying

Most turtles are quiet animals. So when your turtle makes noise, pay attention!

Normal turtle sounds:

• Gentle hissing when pulling into the shell (air escaping)
• Quiet breathing sounds

Danger sounds:

• Crying or squeaking
• Bellowing or moaning
• Whistling when breathing
• Gurgling sounds from the throat
• Any sound that seems like pain

Why do dying turtles make noise?

They’re in pain. They’re struggling to breathe. They’re distressed and uncomfortable.

These sounds break my heart every time. They mean your turtle is suffering and needs help immediately.

If you hear your turtle making pain sounds, this is an absolute emergency. Don’t wait until morning. Find an emergency exotic animal vet and go right away!

11. Bad Smell From The Shell Or Water

Your nose knows when something is wrong! Healthy turtles and clean water don’t smell bad.

What bad smells mean:

Rotten smell from the shell: This usually means shell rot. Bacteria are eating away at your turtle’s shell. The infection creates a terrible odor.

Bad smell from the water (even though it’s clean): Your turtle might have an infection somewhere. The infection is leaking into the water.

Smell from the turtle’s mouth: This could mean mouth rot or a throat infection.

Smell from a wound: The wound is infected and needs treatment.

Shell rot is serious! If you don’t treat it, the bacteria will eat through the shell, through the bone underneath, and eventually reach your turtle’s organs.

What to do:

• Smell your turtle’s shell regularly (I know it sounds weird!)
• Check for soft spots on the shell
• Look for discolored areas
• If you find shell rot, I’ll tell you how to treat it later in this article

Other Common Turtle Sicknesses That Can Cause Death

Now let me tell you about the diseases that cause all these symptoms. Understanding these diseases helps you prevent them!

Respiratory Infections

This is the number one killer of pet turtles. I can’t stress this enough!

What is it?

A respiratory infection is when bacteria or viruses attack your turtle’s lungs and breathing system.

How do turtles get respiratory infections?

• Living in water that’s too cold
• Sudden temperature drops
• Dirty water quality
• Stress from poor care
• Weakened immune system
• Problems during brumation (hibernation)

Signs of respiratory infection:

• Foam at nose or mouth
• Wheezing or whistling sounds
• Breathing with mouth open
• More basking time
• Lopsided swimming
• Lethargy
• Swollen eyes

Treatment:

You MUST take your turtle to the vet. The vet will give injectable antibiotics. These are shots that go into your turtle’s muscle.

Here’s a sad truth: Baby turtles under 3 inches can’t get these shots. They’re too small. So respiratory infections are often fatal in baby turtles.

That’s why prevention is so important for hatchlings!

How I prevent respiratory infections:

• Keep water temperature at 78-80 degrees always
• Use a water heater with a thermostat
• Never let the temperature drop suddenly
• Keep water clean with good filtration
• Don’t put my turtle outside in cold weather
• Make sure basking area is 10 degrees warmer than water

Metabolic Bone Disease (MBD)

This disease makes me angry because it’s SO preventable!

What is MBD?

Metabolic Bone Disease happens when your turtle doesn’t get enough:

• UVB light
• Calcium
• Vitamin D3

Without these things, your turtle’s bones become soft and weak. The shell becomes soft too. Eventually, the bones break, and the turtle can’t move.

What MBD looks like:

• Soft shell (you can press it and it bends!)
• Deformed shell shape
• Weak legs that can’t hold the turtle up
• Turtle dragging itself instead of walking
• Swollen legs
• Jerky, twitchy movements (seizures)
• Not eating

This disease is PAINFUL for your turtle. Imagine your bones slowly breaking down. That’s what MBD feels like!

How to prevent MBD:

I make sure my turtles have:

1. UVB light bulb – This produces special rays that help turtles make vitamin D3
   • Replace the bulb every 6 months (they stop working even if they still light up!)
   • Keep the bulb 12 inches above the basking spot
   • Let the light shine for 10-12 hours per day
2. Calcium supplements – I dust my turtle’s food with calcium powder 2-3 times per week
3. Cuttlebone – I put a piece in the tank for my turtle to nibble on
4. Calcium-rich foods – Like dark leafy greens, especially collard greens

Treatment:

If caught early, you can reverse MBD! The vet will:

• Give calcium injections
• Prescribe vitamin D3 supplements
• Take X-rays to see bone damage
• Create a treatment plan

But severe MBD can’t be cured. The damage is permanent. So prevention is everything!

Ear Abscess

This looks super gross, but it’s treatable!

What is it?

Pus builds up in your turtle’s ear canal. The skin heals over it, trapping the pus inside. This creates a big bump that looks like a pimple on the side of your turtle’s head.

What causes ear abscesses?

• Dirty water
• Bacterial infections
• Problems during brumation
• Vitamin A deficiency

Why is this dangerous?

The abscess keeps growing. It presses on your turtle’s skull. It causes pain. If left too long, the infection can spread to the brain!

Treatment – WARNING:

NEVER try to pop or drain this yourself! I know it’s tempting. But the ear canal is super delicate. You could:

• Damage your turtle’s hearing permanently
• Make the infection worse
• Cause more pain
• Create a bigger problem

Only a vet can treat ear abscesses safely. The vet will:

• Surgically lance (cut open) the abscess
• Drain all the pus out
• Clean the area thoroughly
• Give antibiotics
• Tell you to dry dock your turtle for several days

What is dry docking?

This means keeping your turtle out of water for a while. You put your turtle in a container with a damp towel. The turtle gets to soak in shallow water for 15-30 minutes a day for drinking and pooping. Then back to dry docking.

This helps the wound heal without water bacteria getting inside.

Prevention:

• Change water regularly (I do 25% water changes weekly)
• Use strong filtration
• Keep water quality excellent
• Give vitamin A-rich foods

Shell Rot

Shell rot terrifies me because it can look minor but actually be severe underneath!

What is shell rot?

Bacteria eat away at your turtle’s shell. The shell gets soft, discolored, and starts to smell bad. If the bacteria go deep enough, they reach the bone underneath. Eventually, they can get into your turtle’s body.

What shell rot looks like:

• White, yellow, or gray spots on the shell
• Soft areas when you gently press the shell
• Pitted or rough shell texture
• Bad smell from the shell
• Sometimes fluid or pus oozing out
• Shell pieces flaking off

What causes shell rot?

• Dirty water (this is the number one cause!)
• Cuts or scratches on the shell that get infected
• Fungal infections
• Not enough basking time (wet shell all the time)

How serious is shell rot?

• Small, early shell rot = Easy to treat at home
• Deep shell rot = Needs vet treatment, possibly surgery
• Untreated shell rot = Will eventually kill your turtle

How I treat minor shell rot at home:

1. Remove the turtle from water – Dry dock time!
2. Clean the affected area – Use a soft toothbrush and diluted betadine or chlorhexidine solution (ask your vet which is best)
3. Remove the rotten shell – GENTLY scrape away the soft, dead shell with a clean tool. This doesn’t hurt the turtle if you’re careful – you’re only removing dead material.
4. Apply medication – I use Silvadene cream (silver sulfadiazine). Your vet can prescribe this.
5. Dry dock for 24 hours – Keep the turtle out of water except for 30 minutes of soaking time for drinking
6. Reapply cream and continue dry docking – Do this until the shell looks healthy again

For severe shell rot:

• Take your turtle to the vet immediately
• Surgery might be needed to remove dead tissue
• Antibiotic injections will be required
• Recovery takes weeks or months

Prevention is simple:

• Keep water clean (this is 90% of prevention!)
• Use excellent filtration
• Do regular water changes
• Remove uneaten food within 30 minutes
• Let your turtle bask and dry out daily
• Quarantine new turtles before adding them to your tank

How To Prevent Your Turtle From Getting Sick

An ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure! That’s especially true for turtles.

Here’s my complete prevention checklist:

1. Perfect Water Temperature

For most aquatic turtles:

• Water temperature: 78-80°F
• Basking spot temperature: 88-95°F (about 10-15 degrees warmer than water)
• Air temperature in the tank: 75-80°F

Why temperature matters so much:

Turtles are cold-blooded. Their body temperature matches their environment. If the water is too cold:

• Their immune system doesn’t work properly
• They can’t digest food
• They become stressed
• They get respiratory infections

My setup:

• I use a submersible water heater with a built-in thermostat
• I have a separate thermometer to double-check the temperature
• I check the temperature every single day
• I have a backup heater in case the main one breaks

2. Crystal Clean Water

Dirty water is the root of most turtle health problems!

My water maintenance routine:

Every day:

• Remove any uneaten food
• Scoop out any poop I see
• Check that the filter is working

Every week:

• 25% water change (I remove and replace 25% of the tank water)
• Clean the filter media by rinsing it in old tank water (never tap water – that kills the good bacteria!)
• Wipe down the tank walls if they have algae

Every month:

• 50% water change
• Vacuum the gravel or substrate
• Check all equipment to make sure it’s working

Every 3 months:

• Deep clean the entire tank
• Replace filter cartridges if needed
• Check and replace UVB bulb if it’s been 6 months

Water quality parameters I monitor:

• Ammonia: 0 ppm (anything above 0 is toxic!)
• Nitrite: 0 ppm
• Nitrate: Below 40 ppm (lower is better)
• pH: 6.5-8.0 (depending on your turtle species)

I test my water every week with a liquid test kit. This helps me catch problems before they make my turtle sick!

3. Proper Filtration

Turtles are messy! They poop a lot and create lots of waste.

Here’s what I learned about filters:

You need a filter that’s rated for TWICE your tank size. Why? Because turtles create way more waste than fish!

If you have a 40-gallon tank, get a filter rated for 80 gallons.

Best filter types for turtles:

• Canister filters (my favorite – super powerful and quiet)
• Hang-on-back filters (good for smaller tanks)
• Internal filters (okay for small turtles)

Never use:

• Those tiny filters that come with turtle kits – they’re useless!
• Under-gravel filters – turtles destroy these

4. UVB Lighting

This is NON-NEGOTIABLE. Your turtle will die without proper UVB!

What you need:

• A UVB bulb specifically made for reptiles (10.0 or 5.0 strength)
• Replace it every 6 months even if it still lights up
• Position it 12 inches above the basking area
• No glass or plastic between the bulb and your turtle (these block UVB)
• Keep it on for 10-12 hours per day

I use a timer so the lights turn on and off automatically. This keeps my turtle on a natural day/night cycle.

5. Balanced Diet

Different turtles need different foods!

For omnivorous turtles (like Red-Eared Sliders):

Babies (under 2 years):

• 70% protein (pellets, insects, fish)
• 30% vegetables
• Feed daily

Adults:

• 30% protein
• 70% vegetables
• Feed every other day

Good foods:

• Turtle pellets (high-quality brands)
• Dark leafy greens (collard greens, mustard greens, dandelion greens)
• Occasional treats: small fish, crickets, worms
• Vegetables: carrots, squash, bell peppers

NEVER feed:

• Iceberg lettuce (no nutrition)
• Bread or pasta
• Processed human foods
• Too much protein (causes shell pyramiding and kidney problems)

For herbivorous turtles (like some tortoises):

• Mostly grasses and hay
• Some vegetables and fruits
• Calcium supplements
• Ask your vet for species-specific advice!

6. Space Requirements

Turtles need room to swim and move!

Minimum tank size:

• 10 gallons of water per 1 inch of shell length
• So a 4-inch turtle needs at least 40 gallons
• Bigger is always better!

Basking area:

• Should be completely dry
• Easy for your turtle to climb onto
• Large enough for all your turtles to bask together
• Positioned under the heat and UVB lights

7. Stress Reduction

Stress weakens your turtle’s immune system!

How to reduce stress:

• Keep the tank in a quiet area
• Don’t tap on the glass
• Limit handling to a few times per week
• Wash hands before and after touching your turtle
• Don’t house aggressive turtles together
• Provide hiding spots
• Keep a consistent routine

8. Regular Health Checks

Every day, I check my turtle for:

• Is she eating normally?
• Is she swimming normally?
• Does she have any new cuts or marks?
• Are her eyes clear and open?
• Is she breathing normally?

Every week:

• I do a more thorough physical exam
• Check the shell for soft spots or discoloration
• Look at her skin for any problems
• Watch how she swims and walks
• Check her weight if possible

Every 6-12 months:

• Vet checkup with an exotic animal veterinarian
• Even if my turtle looks healthy!
• The vet can catch problems I might miss

9. Quarantine New Turtles

If you get a new turtle, NEVER put it directly with your other turtles!

Quarantine procedure:

• Keep new turtle in a separate tank for 3 months
• Watch for any signs of illness
• Have the new turtle checked by a vet
• Only combine turtles after quarantine period ends

This prevents your healthy turtles from catching diseases from new turtles!

10. Learn About Your Specific Species

Not all turtles are the same! Different species need different care.

Things that vary by species:

• Water depth requirements
• Temperature preferences
• Diet (herbivore vs. omnivore)
• Tank setup
• Brumation needs
• Adult size
• Personality and behavior

I research my specific turtle species and follow care guides written by experts. Generic turtle care doesn’t work for every species!

How To Tell The Difference Between Dying And Brumation

This confused me so much when I was a new turtle owner! Let me help you understand.

What is brumation?

Brumation is like hibernation for reptiles. During cold months, turtles naturally slow down their body functions to save energy.

During brumation, turtles:

• Stop eating completely
• Move very little
• Sleep most of the time
• Breathe very slowly
• Have a slower heartbeat

This sounds a LOT like dying, right? That’s why people get confused!

The Warm Water Test

Here’s how to tell if your turtle is brumating or dying:

Step 1: Fill a container with lukewarm water (about 75-80°F)

Step 2: Gently place your turtle in the water

Step 3: Wait and watch for 15-30 minutes

If your turtle is brumating:

• The warm water “wakes up” its sensory receptors
• You’ll see the turtle start to move a little
• It might twitch its legs
• It might open its eyes slightly
• It might defecate or urinate (the warmth triggers these functions)

If your turtle is dead:

• No response to the warm water
• Completely limp and lifeless
• No leg movement at all
• Eyes stay closed
• No bodily functions

Other Ways To Check

Check for rigor mortis:

After death, a turtle’s body becomes stiff. This is called rigor mortis. Gently try to move your turtle’s legs. If they’re completely rigid and won’t move at all, your turtle might be dead.

But if the legs have some flexibility, your turtle might just be brumating!

Check for smell:

Dead turtles start to smell bad within a day or two. A turtle in brumation doesn’t smell bad.

Check for response to touch:

Very gently touch your turtle’s eye (using a clean, soft object). A brumating turtle will react slightly – maybe a tiny flinch or eye movement. A dead turtle won’t react at all.

When Brumation Happens

Wild turtles brumate naturally when:

• Temperature drops below 50°F
• Days get shorter
• Food becomes scarce
• Winter approaches

Pet turtles might try to brumate if:

• You let their tank temperature drop
• They’re kept outdoors and it gets cold
• Their body tells them it’s “supposed to” be winter

Should You Let Your Pet Turtle Brumate?

My opinion: Most pet turtles don’t need to brumate!

Why I don’t let my turtles brumate:

• Indoor turtles with heat and lights don’t get natural seasonal signals
• Brumation is stressful on the body
• Sick or underweight turtles can die during brumation
• Baby turtles shouldn’t brumate
• It’s risky if not done properly

If you want to let your turtle brumate:

• Talk to your vet first
• Make sure your turtle is healthy and at a good weight
• Follow a proper brumation protocol
• Monitor your turtle regularly
• Be prepared to end brumation if something goes wrong

What If You’re Still Not Sure?

Take your turtle to a vet! An exotic animal veterinarian can tell you for certain if your turtle is alive and brumating or if it has died.

Don’t feel bad if you can’t tell – even experienced keepers sometimes have trouble!

How To Comfort And Help A Dying Turtle

Finding out your turtle is dying is heartbreaking. I’ve been there, and I cried so much. But there are things you can do to help your turtle in its final days or to give it a fighting chance!

Step 1: Increase The Temperature

Warmth helps trigger your turtle’s immune response.

What to do:

If your turtle is in water:

• Raise the water temperature to 82-85°F
• Make sure the basking spot is 90-95°F
• Keep the lights on longer (but still turn them off at night)

If your turtle is too weak to swim:

• Set up a dry enclosure (a plastic bin works great)
• Put a soft towel in the bottom
• Place a heat lamp over one end (but make sure there’s a cooler area too)
• Make sure the warm area is 85-90°F
• Give your turtle access to shallow water for drinking (supervise so they don’t drown)

Why this helps:

The warmth speeds up your turtle’s metabolism. This makes its immune system work harder to fight off infection. It also makes any medications work better!

Step 2: Try To Get Your Turtle To Eat Or Drink

Nutrition and hydration are crucial for recovery.

For eating:

• Offer your turtle’s absolute favorite foods
• Try stinky foods like fish – the smell attracts turtles
• Cut food into tiny, easy-to-eat pieces
• If your turtle won’t eat solid food, ask your vet about assist feeding or liquid nutrition

For drinking:

• Make sure your turtle has access to clean water
• For very weak turtles, you can offer water from a dropper (place small drops near the mouth)
• Some turtles drink better in a shallow soaking container

Don’t force food or water! This can cause choking. Just offer it and let your turtle decide.

Step 3: Identify The Problem

The more you know about what’s wrong, the better you can help!

Look for clues:

• Where are the symptoms? (eyes, nose, shell, etc.)
• When did the symptoms start?
• Has anything changed recently? (water temperature, food, tank setup)
• Are there any visible wounds or injuries?
• What does the poop look like?

Write everything down! Make a list of all symptoms and when you noticed them. This helps the vet diagnose the problem faster.

Take photos or videos of any visible symptoms. Sometimes symptoms come and go, so having proof helps the vet see what’s happening.

Step 4: Get To A Vet IMMEDIATELY

I can’t stress this enough – TIME IS EVERYTHING when your turtle is dying!

Find an exotic animal vet or reptile specialist. Regular vets often don’t know enough about turtles to help properly.

How to find a reptile vet:

• Search “exotic animal vet near me”
• Call your local zoo and ask who they recommend
• Check veterinary websites for specialties
• Ask other reptile owners in your area

What to bring to the vet:

• Your turtle (obviously!)
• A list of all symptoms
• Photos or videos of symptoms
• Your turtle’s health history
• Information about your tank setup
• A recent water test result if you have one
• A fresh poop sample if possible

Don’t wait until Monday if it’s the weekend! Find an emergency exotic vet. Yes, it costs more. But your turtle’s life is worth it!

Step 5: Keep Your Turtle Comfortable

While you’re waiting for the vet appointment or during treatment, focus on comfort.

Reduce stress:

• Keep the area quiet
• Dim the lights a bit
• Minimize handling
• Keep other pets away
• Speak softly to your turtle

Provide support:

• If your turtle can’t lift its head above water, provide a platform or reduce water depth
• Make sure basking is easy to access
• Remove any tank decorations that might stress your turtle out

Stay positive:

• Turtles can sense your energy
• Talk gently to your turtle
• Let it know you’re there and you care

Monitor constantly:

• Check on your turtle frequently
• Watch for any changes in symptoms
• Be ready to act if things get worse

Step 6: Follow Vet Instructions Exactly

When the vet gives you medicine or care instructions, follow them precisely!

Common treatments you might need to give:

Injectable antibiotics:

• The vet will teach you how to give shots
• Don’t skip doses!
• Give them at the same time each day
• Complete the full course even if your turtle looks better

Oral medications:

• Some meds go in the mouth
• The vet will show you the proper technique
• Never force your turtle’s mouth open too hard

Topical treatments:

• Creams or ointments for shell rot or wounds
• Apply exactly as directed
• Keep the area dry as instructed

Dry docking:

• Keep your turtle out of water for specified periods
• Provide supervised soaking time
• Keep the turtle warm and comfortable

Step 7: Don’t Give Up Too Soon

I’ve seen turtles that looked absolutely hopeless make full recoveries! Turtles are incredibly resilient creatures.

Keep fighting for your turtle as long as:

• Your turtle shows any signs of life
• The vet says there’s a chance
• Your turtle isn’t suffering unbearably
• You can afford the treatment

But also know when to let go:

Sometimes, despite our best efforts, turtles are too sick to save. If your turtle is suffering and the vet says there’s no hope, the kindest thing might be to let your turtle pass peacefully.

This is the hardest decision any pet owner has to make. I’ve been there, and it’s absolutely devastating. But preventing suffering is the last act of love we can give our pets.

What To Do If Your Turtle Dies

I’m so sorry you’re reading this section. Losing a turtle is incredibly painful. Let me help you through this difficult time.

Take Time To Grieve

First, let me tell you: Your grief is valid.

People sometimes don’t understand how much we love our turtles. They might say, “It’s just a turtle.” But you and I know better. Your turtle was your friend, your companion, your responsibility. You’re allowed to be heartbroken.

It’s okay to:

• Cry as much as you need
• Feel guilty (even though you did your best)
• Miss your turtle terribly
• Take time off work or school if you need to
• Talk about your turtle and share memories

Verify Your Turtle Has Passed

Before you do anything else, make absolutely sure your turtle is dead and not just in deep brumation.

Signs of death:

• No response to the warm water test
• Body is completely stiff (rigor mortis)
• Bad odor starting
• No response to any stimulation
• Been completely still for several days
• Starting to decompose

If you’re not 100% sure, take your turtle to a vet to confirm death. I know this seems extreme, but I’ve heard stories of people accidentally burying turtles that were actually brumating!

Option 1: Bury Your Turtle

This is what I do with my turtles when they pass. Returning them to the earth feels right to me.

How to bury your turtle properly:

Choose a location:

• Your backyard (if you own your home)
• A pet cemetery
• A special place that meant something to you and your turtle
• Check local laws – some places have rules about pet burial

Prepare the grave:

• Dig a hole at least 3 feet deep (this prevents scavengers from digging it up)
• Make it wide enough for your turtle and any items you want to include
• Choose a spot away from water sources

The burial:

• You can bury your turtle in a small box or wrapped in a natural cloth
• Some people include their turtle’s favorite items
• Say a few words if you want to
• Fill in the grave

Mark the spot:

• Place a stone or marker
• Plant a flower or tree on top
• This gives you a place to visit and remember your turtle

I planted a Japanese maple tree over my first turtle’s grave. Every spring when it blooms, I think of him. It brings me comfort.

Option 2: Preserve The Shell

Some people want to keep their turtle’s shell as a memorial.

Important: This process is NOT easy, and it’s not for everyone. You need a strong stomach for this.

How to preserve a turtle shell:

Step 1: Remove the body from the shell

• This is graphic and difficult
• You need to carefully separate the shell from the internal body
• Many people can’t do this themselves and that’s totally okay
• You can ask a taxidermist to do it

Step 2: Clean the shell thoroughly

• Remove all tissue from inside the shell
• This takes time and patience
• Use tools carefully so you don’t damage the shell

Step 3: Soak in hydrogen peroxide

• This helps clean and whiten the shell
• Soak for several days
• Change the solution regularly

Step 4: Dry completely

• Let the shell air dry for several weeks
• Make sure it’s totally dry inside and out

Step 5: Seal (optional)

• Some people apply a clear sealant
• This preserves the color better
• Others prefer the natural weathered look

Note: The shell will lose some of its color over time. It will become lighter and more faded. This is natural and normal.

Option 3: Cremation

Pet cremation services exist in many areas.

Two types:

• Private cremation: You get your turtle’s ashes back
• Group cremation: Multiple pets are cremated together; ashes aren’t returned

Costs vary depending on your location and the service you choose.

You can keep the ashes in a special urn, scatter them in a meaningful place, or even have them made into memorial jewelry.

Special Case: Dead Female Turtle Found Outside

If you find a dead female turtle by a road or path during nesting season (spring/summer), she might have been looking for a place to lay eggs!

What to do:

Check if she was gravid (carrying eggs):

• Very carefully examine the body
• Female turtles have a cavity where eggs develop
• If you find eggs, you might be able to save them!

Collecting eggs:

• Remove eggs carefully
• Mark the top of each egg with a pencil
• Do NOT rotate or flip the eggs
• Place them in an incubator with proper temperature and humidity

Incubating turtle eggs:

• Research the specific species
• Set up a proper incubator (temperature and humidity are critical)
• Wait several weeks to months for hatching

This is advanced turtle care! If you find eggs, contact a reptile rescue or wildlife rehabilitation center for help.

By saving the eggs, you’re giving life even in death. The mother turtle’s babies can still have a chance!

Create A Memorial

Honor your turtle’s memory in a way that feels right to you:

Ideas:

• Create a photo album or scrapbook
• Write a letter to your turtle
• Make a donation to a turtle rescue in your turtle’s name
• Frame a favorite photo
• Share stories about your turtle online
• Create artwork inspired by your turtle

I have a small shelf in my home with photos of all my turtles who have passed. Each has a small item that reminds me of them. It’s my way of keeping their memory alive.

Learn And Move Forward

After you’ve had time to grieve, think about what happened.

Ask yourself:

• Did I miss any early warning signs?
• Was there anything I could have done differently?
• What can I learn from this experience?
• How can I provide better care for future turtles?

This isn’t about guilt! It’s about growth and becoming a better turtle owner.

Even the best turtle owners lose turtles sometimes. Illness happens. Accidents happen. Age happens. What matters is that you loved your turtle and did your best.

Should You Get Another Turtle?

There’s no right timeline for this. Some people are ready for a new turtle after a few weeks. Others need months or even years.

Wait until:

• You’ve finished grieving
• You feel emotionally ready
• You’ve learned from any mistakes
• You’ve improved your setup if needed
• You genuinely want a new turtle (not just to fill a void)

And remember: A new turtle isn’t a replacement. It’s a new friend with its own personality and quirks.

Frequently Asked Questions About Dying Turtles

Let me answer some common questions I get asked all the time:

Do turtles float when they die?

Yes, usually. After death, gases build up inside the turtle’s body as it decomposes. These gases make the body lighter and cause it to float.

But here’s the important part: Floating doesn’t always mean death!

Healthy turtles sometimes float on purpose:

• To relax and rest
• To warm up in the sun
• Just because they feel like it

And dead turtles don’t always float right away. It takes time for enough gas to build up.

So floating by itself isn’t a good way to tell if your turtle is dead. Look for other signs too!

Can turtles recover from serious illness?

Yes! Turtles are surprisingly tough and can recover from conditions that seem hopeless.

I’ve seen turtles recover from:

• Severe respiratory infections
• Advanced shell rot
• Major injuries
• Metabolic bone disease (if caught early enough)
• Severe malnutrition

The key factors for recovery are:

• Getting treatment FAST
• Following vet instructions exactly
• Providing excellent care during recovery
• Having patience (recovery can take weeks or months)
• The turtle’s will to live

But I’ll be honest: Some conditions are too advanced to treat. And some turtles are too weak to fight back. Not every turtle can be saved, no matter how hard we try.

How long can a dying turtle survive?

This depends entirely on what’s wrong with the turtle.

Without treatment:

• Severe respiratory infection: days to weeks
• Advanced shell rot: weeks to months
• Metabolic bone disease: months to years (with increasing disability)
• Organ failure: days
• Severe injury: hours to days

With proper treatment: Many turtles can make full recoveries! The earlier you catch the problem, the better the chances.

Can I treat my turtle at home or do I need a vet?

You NEED a vet for:

• Respiratory infections (these require injectable antibiotics)
• Severe shell rot
• Eye infections
• Ear abscesses
• Suspected broken bones
• Anything involving internal organs
• Any condition that’s getting worse
• Any condition where you’re not sure what’s wrong

You might be able to treat at home (with vet guidance):

• Very minor shell rot (just a small spot)
• Minor scratches or abrasions
• Some parasite issues (after vet diagnosis)

But here’s my advice: When in doubt, go to the vet! It’s better to waste money on an unnecessary vet visit than to lose your turtle because you waited too long.

Do turtles feel pain?

Yes, absolutely! Turtles have nerves and pain receptors just like we do.

Turtles feel pain from:

• Injuries and wounds
• Infections
• Shell damage (the shell has nerves in it!)
• Internal problems
• Medical procedures

This is why it’s so important to treat sick turtles quickly. They’re suffering, even if they don’t show it obviously.

Turtles are good at hiding pain because in the wild, showing weakness makes them targets for predators. So if your turtle is showing signs of distress, it’s probably in serious pain.

Why do turtles hide when they’re sick?

This is instinct! In the wild, sick animals are vulnerable to predators. So turtles instinctively try to hide when they feel unwell.

Your turtle might:

• Stay hidden in its shell more
• Hide under decorations
• Try to bury itself in substrate
• Avoid the open areas of the tank

What this means for you: If your normally outgoing turtle suddenly becomes shy and hiding, it’s a RED FLAG that something is wrong!

Can stress kill a turtle?

Yes, chronic stress can kill a turtle over time.

Stress weakens the immune system, making your turtle more likely to get sick. Stress also:

• Causes loss of appetite
• Disrupts sleep patterns
• Prevents proper healing
• Makes existing conditions worse

Common causes of stress in pet turtles:

• Tank too small
• Water too cold or dirty
• Too much handling
• Aggressive tank mates
• Loud environment
• Inadequate hiding spots
• Poor lighting
• Frequent tank changes

Reduce stress by providing excellent care and a calm environment.

What’s the average lifespan of a pet turtle?

This varies HUGELY by species!

Common pet turtles:

• Red-Eared Slider: 20-40 years (some live 60+!)
• Painted Turtle: 20-30 years
• Map Turtle: 15-20 years
• Musk Turtle: 30-50 years
• Box Turtle: 30-40 years (some live 100+!)

With proper care, most turtles outlive dogs and cats! This is why turtles are a serious, long-term commitment.

If your turtle dies young (under 10 years), something went wrong. It might have been:

• Poor care (often unintentional – people don’t know better)
• Genetic problems
• Illness that wasn’t caught in time
• Environmental issues

My Final Thoughts And Encouragement

I’ve been keeping turtles for over 15 years now. I’ve raised baby turtles, rescued sick turtles, and sadly, I’ve lost turtles too.

Every turtle taught me something important.

My first turtle taught me about responsibility. My second turtle taught me that even when you do everything right, sometimes things still go wrong. My third turtle taught me about resilience – she recovered from severe shell rot that I thought would kill her.

Here’s what I want you to know:

You’re Not A Bad Turtle Owner

If your turtle is sick or dying, you might feel like you failed. But reading this article proves you’re trying to help. You care enough to learn. That makes you a GOOD turtle owner!

Bad turtle owners don’t research. They don’t ask questions. They don’t try to help their sick turtles. But you? You’re here, reading thousands of words about turtle health. You care.

Forgive yourself for mistakes. We all make them. What matters is that you learn and do better going forward.

Prevention Is Your Best Friend

Most turtle deaths are preventable! The vast majority of turtle illnesses come from:

• Water that’s too cold
• Dirty water
• No UVB light
• Poor diet
• Inadequate calcium

Fix these five things, and you’ll prevent 90% of turtle health problems!

I know good equipment costs money. Proper food costs money. Vet visits cost money. But I promise you – spending money on prevention is WAY cheaper than spending money on emergency vet visits and medications!

Save up for the right equipment. Your turtle will thank you with decades of healthy life!

Trust Your Instincts

You know your turtle better than anyone else. If something feels wrong, it probably is!

Don’t let anyone tell you you’re overreacting. If your gut says, “My turtle needs help,” listen to that feeling!

I can’t count the number of times my instincts saved my turtles’ lives. That little voice saying, “Something’s not right,” is valuable. Pay attention to it!

Build A Support Network

Connect with other turtle owners! Join online forums, Facebook groups, Reddit communities. These people understand what you’re going through.

When my turtle was dying, my online turtle community kept me sane. They answered my frantic questions at 2 AM. They shared their experiences. They offered hope when I felt hopeless.

You don’t have to go through turtle emergencies alone!

Keep Learning

Turtle care information is always evolving. New research comes out. Better products become available. Care standards improve.

Stay educated:

• Read turtle care websites regularly
• Watch videos from reputable turtle keepers
• Join turtle communities
• Ask your vet questions
• Never stop learning about your specific turtle species

The more you know, the better care you can provide!

Every Turtle Deserves Your Best Effort

Whether your turtle cost $10 or $1,000, whether it’s a common species or rare, whether you’ve had it for 2 weeks or 20 years – it deserves excellent care.

Turtles are living creatures that depend completely on us. They can’t escape bad conditions. They can’t tell us when they’re sick. They can’t buy themselves better food or a bigger tank.

We’re their whole world. We’re responsible for their happiness, health, and life.

Take that responsibility seriously! Your turtle is counting on you.

There’s Always Hope

If your turtle is sick right now, don’t give up! Turtles can surprise you with their strength and will to live.

Do everything you can:

• Raise the temperature
• Get to a vet IMMEDIATELY
• Follow treatment instructions perfectly
• Provide excellent care
• Send your turtle positive energy

I’ve seen miracles happen. I’ve seen turtles recover when everyone thought they’d die. Fight for your turtle!

And if your turtle doesn’t make it despite your best efforts, know that you did everything you could. Sometimes love and excellent care aren’t enough to overcome illness or injury. That’s heartbreaking, but it’s not your fault.

Moving Forward

Whether you’re reading this to prepare for potential problems or because your turtle is sick right now, you’re taking the right steps.

Knowledge is power. By learning these warning signs and prevention strategies, you’re giving your turtle the best chance at a long, healthy life.

Bookmark this article. Share it with other turtle owners. Reference it whenever you have concerns about your turtle’s health.

And most importantly: Love your turtle! Spend time with them. Watch them swim. Hand-feed them treats. Take photos. Make memories.

Turtles may live a long time, but life is unpredictable. Cherish every day you have with your shelled friend.

Your turtle is lucky to have you. Now go give them the amazing life they deserve!

---

Summary: Quick Reference Guide

Let me give you a quick checklist you can print out and keep near your turtle tank:

Emergency Warning Signs – Get To A Vet NOW If You See:

☐ Foam or mucus at nose or mouth ☐ Wheezing, whistling, or labored breathing ☐ Swimming lopsided or tilted ☐ Completely lethargic (not moving for days) ☐ Swollen, puffy eyes ☐ Blood in poop ☐ Severe shell rot (deep pits, bad smell) ☐ Making pain noises ☐ Not eating for more than a week

Prevention Checklist – Do These Things Regularly:

☐ Keep water temperature at 78-80°F ☐ Keep basking spot at 88-95°F ☐ Change 25% of water weekly ☐ Test water parameters weekly ☐ Provide UVB lighting 10-12 hours daily ☐ Replace UVB bulb every 6 months ☐ Feed balanced diet appropriate for species ☐ Supplement with calcium 2-3 times weekly ☐ Clean filter regularly ☐ Remove uneaten food after 30 minutes ☐ Do daily visual health checks ☐ Annual vet checkups

Daily Turtle Health Check:

☐ Is my turtle eating normally? ☐ Is my turtle swimming normally? ☐ Are my turtle’s eyes clear and open? ☐ Is my turtle breathing normally? ☐ Does my turtle have any new marks or injuries? ☐ Is the water temperature correct? ☐ Is the filter working?

Print this out and check it every day! Catching problems early saves lives!

---

I hope this guide helps you keep your turtle healthy and happy for many, many years to come. Remember – you’ve got this! Your turtle believes in you, and so do I.

If you have any questions or just need someone to talk to about your turtle, reach out to turtle communities online. We’re all in this together, and we all want the same thing: happy, healthy turtles!

Take care of yourself and your shelled friend! 🐢💚