Have you noticed your turtle keeping its eyes shut more often than usual? Maybe there’s swelling, cloudiness, or even pus leaking from one or both eyes? If so, you’re probably asking yourself: “Does my turtle have an eye infection?” I’ve been there—and yes, eye problems in turtles are more common than you might think.

In this post, I’ll walk you through everything I’ve learned from firsthand experience dealing with turtle eye infections. We’ll look at the common symptoms, underlying causes, and real solutions to help your little shelled buddy heal fast and stay healthy.

Let’s break it down.

Do Turtles Get Eye Infections?

Yes, they do. In fact, eye infections are one of the most common health problems turtles face—especially aquatic species like red-eared sliders, painted turtles, and map turtles.

And it’s not always something you did wrong. Eye issues can pop up due to a variety of reasons, from poor water conditions to lack of vitamins or even underlying respiratory infections. I’ve seen it happen in both baby and adult turtles—even when everything else in the tank seemed fine.

The tricky part

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Turtle Eye Infection: Symptoms, Reasons, Solutions

Is your turtle’s eye swollen? Or maybe it won’t open one or both eyes at all? If you’re seeing puffiness, redness, cloudiness, or discharge, chances are high that you’re dealing with an eye infection—and yeah, I’ve dealt with it too.

When I first saw my red-eared slider keeping its eyes shut for hours and avoiding food, I didn’t know what was wrong. But after some digging and a quick trip to the vet, I realized how common turtle eye infections actually are—and how many of us unknowingly create the conditions that cause them.

In this post, I’ll walk you through how to spot a turtle eye infection, what usually causes it, and how to treat and prevent it, based on my own experience and what’s worked for other turtle keepers too.

Do Turtles Get Eye Infections?

Absolutely, yes. Eye infections are one of the most frequent health problems I’ve seen in both aquatic and semi-aquatic turtles—especially young ones or turtles living in poor setups.

The scary part? A turtle eye infection can be a warning sign of something deeper, like a vitamin deficiency or a full-blown respiratory illness. It might start small, but if you ignore it, things can escalate fast—your turtle could stop eating, stay lethargic, or even go blind in serious cases.

I’ve seen it happen with red-eared sliders, map turtles, and even box turtles. And in almost every case, the root cause comes down to poor habitat care or nutritional imbalances. That’s the tough part—but also the good news: it means most eye infections can be prevented and treated at home with the right changes.

Turtle Eye Infection Symptoms

If you’re not sure whether it’s an actual infection or just mild irritation, here are the signs I always look for. These are the most common symptoms of eye problems in turtles, based on what I’ve seen personally and what vets confirm:

• Swollen eyelids – Sometimes both eyes puff up so much the turtle can’t even open them.
• Watery or crusty discharge – Clear, milky, or pus-like fluid coming from the corners of the eyes.
• Cloudiness or film over the eye – A sign of irritation, injury, or infection.
• Constant blinking or rubbing – Your turtle may use its front legs to “wipe” its face more than usual.
• Closed eyes all day – If your turtle keeps its eyes shut for hours or even days, that’s a red flag.
• Redness around the eyes – Inflamed tissue, especially if the area looks raw or irritated.
• Loss of appetite – Turtles won’t eat if they can’t see or if they’re feeling unwell in general.
• Lethargy – Staying on the basking dock or hiding most of the day.

Important: Eye infections don’t always affect both eyes at once. In many cases I’ve seen, it starts with just one eye and spreads if left untreated.

My First Experience With a Turtle Eye Infection

I’ll never forget the first time it happened to me. I had just set up a tank for my juvenile red-eared slider. Temps were great, basking spot was in place, and I was feeding pellets like clockwork. But one day, I noticed he wasn’t as active—and when I looked closer, his right eye was puffy and closed shut.

At first, I thought maybe he just bumped into something. But the next day, both eyes were swollen and he refused to eat. I tried wiping gently with clean water (mistake!), but nothing helped. That’s when I knew I had to dig deeper—and what I found totally changed how I care for turtles now.

Turned out, I was missing UVB lighting and wasn’t providing any dark leafy greens—two huge factors that contribute to vitamin A deficiency, one of the leading causes of turtle eye infections.

Common Causes of Eye Infections in Turtles

After years of keeping turtles and dealing with health issues, I’ve realized most eye infections don’t just “happen.” There’s always a root cause—and when you figure that out, you’re halfway to fixing the problem. So, let’s look at the main reasons turtles get eye infections, and how you can tackle each one.

1. Vitamin A Deficiency (Hypovitaminosis A)

This is the most common cause of swollen or shut eyes in turtles—especially in young ones or turtles fed only pellets. Vitamin A is essential for eye health, immune strength, and skin regeneration.

When turtles don’t get enough Vitamin A, you’ll often see:

• Puffy eyelids
• Mucus around the eyes
• Dull or flaky skin
• Weakness or poor appetite

My fix: I started adding dark leafy greens like kale, dandelion leaves, and collard greens to their diet. I also added an occasional vitamin supplement (like Reptivite with D3). Within days, I saw a big improvement.

Avoid feeding too many iceberg lettuce leaves—they contain almost no nutrients and won’t help correct the deficiency.

2. Dirty or Unfiltered Water

Bad water is a silent killer in turtle tanks. You might not smell anything, but the bacteria and ammonia buildup can irritate a turtle’s eyes and lead to full-blown infection.

Signs that your water could be the issue:

• Cloudy or foamy water
• Algae buildup on the tank or decorations
• A strong smell
• Frequent eye issues in otherwise healthy turtles

My routine: I use a canister filter that’s rated for at least double my tank size, and I do 25–30% water changes twice a week. I also test ammonia and nitrite levels once a week using a liquid test kit.

Clean water = healthy eyes. It’s that simple.

3. Lack of UVB Light

This is a big one that new turtle keepers often miss. UVB lighting helps turtles metabolize Vitamin D3, which they need to absorb calcium and stay healthy. Without it, their immune systems weaken, and their eyes become more vulnerable to infection.

Turtles kept indoors need 10–12 hours of UVB exposure per day. A regular heat bulb won’t do the trick—you need a UVB-specific bulb, like the Zoo Med ReptiSun 5.0 or 10.0.

My reminder: I change my UVB bulb every 6 months, even if it’s still glowing. UVB output fades long before the light burns out.

Also, UVB can’t pass through glass or plastic—so make sure there’s no cover between the bulb and the turtle.

4. Incorrect Humidity or Dry Environment (for Land Turtles)

If you’re keeping a terrestrial turtle like a box turtle, the humidity levels in their enclosure matter a lot. Too dry, and they can develop dry, irritated eyes that get infected easily.

What I do: I maintain 60–80% humidity in my box turtle’s habitat using moist substrate (like coconut coir), daily misting, and a shallow water dish for soaking.

This doesn’t apply to aquatic turtles like red-eared sliders, but it’s vital for land-based species.

5. Injuries or Foreign Objects

Sometimes it’s something as simple as a scratch to the eye, or a piece of gravel or substrate that got lodged under the eyelid. I’ve seen this a few times, especially with turtles that like to dig or burrow.

Signs of this cause:

• One eye affected (usually not both)
• Rubbing or scratching at the eye
• Sudden swelling without other symptoms

Pro tip: Never try to dig anything out of a turtle’s eye yourself. I made that mistake once and made things worse. If you suspect an object is stuck in the eye, go straight to a reptile vet.

How to Treat Turtle Eye Infections

Once you’ve figured out the likely cause of the infection, the next step is treatment. I’ll be honest—some mild eye infections can be treated at home with a few careful changes. But other times, especially if the eye is swollen shut for days or there’s thick discharge, you’ll need a reptile vet.

Here’s how I approach it based on severity and what’s worked for me:

1. Fix the Habitat First

Before applying anything to your turtle’s eyes, make sure the environment is clean and correct. If you don’t fix the root cause—dirty water, no UVB, poor diet—the infection will keep coming back.

Checklist:

• Clean the tank and do a partial water change
• Check your UVB bulb (replace if it’s older than 6 months)
• Confirm temperatures (water 78–82°F, basking spot 88–92°F)
• Add dark leafy greens to the diet
• Stop handling your turtle—let it rest and recover

2. Use Turtle Eye Drops (Vet-Approved Only)

I’ve had success using over-the-counter turtle eye drops (like Zoo Med’s Repti Turtle Eye Drops), but only for very mild cases. These drops contain saline and Vitamin A and can help flush irritants or soothe minor inflammation.

How I apply them:

• Gently pick up the turtle
• Place one drop in the affected eye
• Let the turtle blink or rub naturally—don’t force anything
• Use once or twice daily for 3–5 days while also correcting tank conditions

Important: If the swelling gets worse or the turtle stops eating entirely, don’t rely on drops alone—see a vet.

3. Try Warm Soaks (If Turtle Isn’t Eating)

A turtle that won’t open its eyes often won’t eat, and that’s where warm soaks can help. I use a small tub with shallow, clean dechlorinated water (around 85°F) and let the turtle soak for 15–20 minutes once a day.

Sometimes I’ll mix a bit of carrot juice into the water (it’s rich in beta carotene, a Vitamin A source), but make sure it’s natural, no sugar added, and use only a small amount diluted in warm water.

4. When to See a Reptile Vet

If you’re seeing any of these signs, it’s time to go straight to the vet:

• Eye stays swollen shut for more than 3–4 days
• Thick, yellow, or green discharge
• Both eyes affected and turtle isn’t eating
• Lethargy, wheezing, or clicking sounds while breathing
• White spots or ulcers forming in the eye

The vet may prescribe antibiotic eye ointment, injectable vitamins, or even treat for respiratory infections, which can cause secondary eye issues. In one case, my turtle’s eye infection turned out to be linked to pneumonia—so don’t take chances.

How to Prevent Eye Infections in the Future

Once your turtle recovers, prevention becomes everything. Here’s what I personally do now to keep eye issues from coming back:

• Use high-quality UVB lighting and replace it every 6 months
• Feed a varied diet with dark leafy greens, high-quality pellets, and occasional treats
• Keep water crystal clean with a strong filter and regular water changes
• Check basking and water temperatures weekly with digital thermometers
• Minimize stress by limiting handling and keeping noise levels low around the tank
• Quarantine new turtles before adding them to your main tank—eye infections can spread

Final Words

Eye infections in turtles can be scary to deal with, especially the first time. But the good news is, they’re usually preventable—and if caught early, completely treatable. The key is to look closely at your turtle’s setup, diet, and behavior, and act fast if something seems off.

I’ve dealt with this more than once, and every time, I learned something new that made me a better turtle owner. If your turtle’s showing signs of an eye infection, don’t ignore it. Fix the environment, offer proper nutrition, and get vet help if needed.

Your turtle can bounce back—and you’ll both come out of it stronger.